Gion Matsuri is one of the great treasures of Kyoto, and seeing the Yamaboko floats up close never loses its magic. The evenings before the parade, Yoiyama, are my favourite, when the old streets fill with lanterns, yukata and festival music. Come for the procession, but stay for those warm July nights.
A thousand years of tradition hauled through the streets on enormous wooden floats, one of the most atmospheric festivals I have been to. It is stately rather than raucous, so come for the spectacle and the history, not a party. July in Kyoto is punishingly hot and the crowds are huge, so stake out your spot early.